Saturday, April 24, 2010
Check out the seal on that!
Kobe beef has a special flower-shaped stamp. Our chef, insisted I take a pic. Done!
More marbled Kobe beef
This is where we came in on our first visit to Japan. But if you don't eat the local delicacies, then what's the point in visiting?
I knew people who went to Japan and all they ate was McDonald's while they were here. What's the point in going? Food is like music or folk tales, it's a part of the experience. Even if the meal is bad or the flavors weird, it's always awesome.Freshest abalone dinner ever
When I ordered the grilled abalone, I didn't expect it to be alive and kicking, just fresh.
Bob and I had to watch it cook and squirm on the grill while the chef prepared the Kobe tenderloin.
Friday, April 23, 2010
The perfect cup of #coffee ?
Casa Blanca Club, Osaka.
Bob and I wandered off the main drag, Sennichimae dori, and into an open market south of the Namba neighborhood this morning and decided we're just going to hang with the locals today, walk around the city, maybe take in a spa. And this coffee, brewed using a single cup drip filter carafe was darn good coffee.Eating Okonomiyaki: the anti-crepe
Basically a pancake stuffed with meat and seafood (though you can add cheese), Okonomiyaki developed in post-World War II Osaka when food was scarce.
It's probably a lot more robust now then it was back in the day, but I think it's decidedly American in its origin since dry good rations like pancake mix was probably doing the rounds back then. Now after it's cooked they smear it with teriyaki sauce and you can squirt mayo on it, too. The hotel recommended we have it at a place called Chibo in the heart of trendy Namba.Welcome mat, EVISU Boutique, Kyoto
Subtlety is not their strong suit...
The Japanese are amazingly lewd and uptight at the same time. About two doors down on Kyamachi, Bob and I ducked into an adult movie store. Tiny, compact space lined with DVDs - all straight porn, with one wall devoted to mainstream Hollywood movies - that rented out little viewing booths. Guests received a pillow, towel and slippers. They're a thorough, thoughtful bunch, the Japanese ...Thursday, April 22, 2010
Astro Boy, local hero
Kyoto is the home of Tezuka Productions, the company that created Astro Boy, first as a comic, then an animated series.
He still has a head shaped like a comma ...Nishi Hogan-ji and Toji Temple
It's been a wonderful couple of days in Kyoto, despite the persistent downpour that consumed most of Thursday.
Undeterred, we grabbed umbrellas and paid visits to both the Nishi Hongan-ji and Toji Temples. Kyoto's an easy, walkable town. It's only got two subway lines and a very intricate bus system. But we lucked out that our hotel was about 15- to 20-minutes from both temples.
The Nishi Hongan-ji is the largest school of a type of Buddhism practiced in the region, Jodo Shinsu. Here's a pic of the main or Founders Hall:
It's an amazing piece of architecture. Originally constructed in the 1600s, the current building dates from the 1760s. Bob and I walked through both halls, but it was in the Buddha Hall that we happened upon something very wonderful.
We were only there about 10 minutes when the beautiful chandelier and the other main lights were turned off. Then a group of eight elderly men and women were brought to the front of the alter and three priests in dark blue robes came out and proceeded to lead them in a recitation of sorts.
As a former alter boy, it all seemed very familiar. There was the use of small items, fans and such to bestow certain blessings, one of the priests led a kind of call-and-response portion of the ceremony, and the congregants wore long, thin shawls around their necks.(No, I didn't take any pictures, it seemed kind of rude.)
Finally, another obviously more senior priest in a beautiful orange robe came out and led the congregation in another final round of prayers. Then, he took one of the items, what looked like a long lacquer wand, and he walked behind each of the congregants, tapping them on the head and reciting a prayer or dedication of sorts.
The ritual lasted about 20 minutes and when it was done, the eight elderly Japanese packed up their belongings and left. As the lights came back up we asked one of the priests what just happened. We had lucked out and arrived in time to see a these people receive the Buddhist name.
Very cool. And a wonderful respite from a rainy afternoon. It was nice to sit in the comfort of this ancient building and witness something which I guess could be described as sacred. The ceremony reminded me less of the Catholic confirmation ritual and more like the Stations of the Cross on Good Friday or even a very ornate funeral ceremony.
Earlier that day we had visited the Toji Temple, it's known for it pagoda which has become the symbol of Kyoto.
This too had two wonderful grand halls, and the statuary of Buddhas and kings and other sacred beings was impressive. No photos allowed, but I did get the complete postcard set. (Why take bad pics when professionals can do it for you!)
Welcome to The World Bank
From livestock numbers, to CO2 emissions to mortality rates, it's enough to make Libertarians wet their already damp pants! Talk about transparency ...
内容: Data | The World Bank （Google サイドウィキで表示）
I'm Bewitched ...
... But I have no idea what's she's selling. It was a sign on what looked like a paint store.
Nice save (but Apple has a lot to learn about Freedom of the Press)
内容: Apple approves Pulitzer winner’s iPhone app; cartoonist now free to mock the powerful on cell phones » Nieman Journalism Lab （Google サイドウィキで表示）
Addicted to Cute, Part Deux
The previous installment of Addicted to Cute appeared in my other posterous blog, but this one goes one better, being a video and all ...
This is the mascot for a cultural celebration or fair that will be happening in Kyoto in the Fall of 2011. It was entertaining the crowds at the entrance to the Kyoto Tower Hotel. I think it's a spirit of some kind, but I can't be sure and the nice girls in the pink jackets did not have the English to define the character.Rainy day, Kyoto
Bob and I love these shrines. They're restful and pleasant and familiar in an odd way. This was on the grounds of the Toji Temple.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Toji Temple
It's raining today in Kyoto. A kind of steady downpour, but it's not too bad.
The temple was first built in 796 AD. It's pretty amazing, especially the Kodo lecture hall. It's got 21 statues in it; Buddhas, Fearful Kings, Guardian Kings, Bodhisattvas, all just beautiful and impressive.Who's the king of animals in Africa?
Kimba, that's who.
Simba is nothing more than a pretender to the throne.Leonardo DiCaprio for Bridgestone
Saw this in an auto repair shop a couple of blocks from Kyoto Station and the hotel.
At first I thought it was some Formula 1 dude as that's more popular here than NASCAR ("Hmm, he looks familiar ... Waitaminute ...!).
I also saw a Julia Roberts' Lancome ad in some department store in Ginza which probably isn't news but reminded me of Goldie Hawn's line in "First Wives' Club" where she described roles for women in Hollywood as coming in three stages, "ingenue, district attorney and Driving Miss Daisy ..."
{{Sigh}} decidedly non-Japanese restaurant for dinner
Bob read a good review so we went to a French bistro near Kyoto City Hall, Le Bouchon.
Quite good. We had a 2007 Anthony Barton Blanc Bordeaux which was tart, mineral, with a bright clean finish.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Tunnel towards Miho Museum
Bob and I have wanted to come here for years since we saw a documentary on its construction one night.
We even managed to get her while pink cherry blossoms were still in bloom.
It's beautiful in its layout, the lines and curvature of the road leading to the tunnel. Bob's very happy.
Kyoto Tower Hotel
The view from outside Kyoto train station.
Nice cool Spring morning. Searching for coffee.
Eel, and nothing but eel ...
What you got was grilled eel, a casserole made with eel, burdock root and scrambled egg in a clear soup, cold grilled eel and cucumber in a light rice wine vinegar sauce, Japanese-style omelette with grilled eel, deep friend eel bones (basically the spines, they were quite tasty), eel livers stewed in a soy sauce-based broth (savory and pretty wonderful), Japanese pickles, rice and a clear soup with eel livers.
That's a lot of eel.
But it was quite tasty and there were a lot of different flavors going on, savory, sweet, salty. The clear soup has a smoky flavor which made up for the tiny organ meats bobbing around in the black lacquer bowl.
Bob ordered tea, but I set my sights on Shochu, or as they called it in the English translation on the menu, "distilled spirits." When I asked for a glass, the waitress asked: "Potato or wheat?"
That's when I knew I was in a little trouble.
I went for wheat because anyone who has ever had Ireland's traditional potato-based firewater, poteen (pronounced po-cheen), will tell you, it's far from smooth and doesn't go down too easy. You had the option of on the rocks or served with hot or cold water. I went for the rocks.
It wasn't until two or three sips into it I realized the nose seemed somewhat familiar. You know how some wine reviews, particularly Rieslings, get all crazy and say there's a hint of petrol blahblahblah ... well, shochu tastes like turpentine smells.
Is Apple a threat to the First Amendment?
I know programmers are appalled by how Apple dictates which programs can be used to create apps for Apple products, but I think it's time the Fourth Estate chimed in. You can't create Apps that mock public figures? Please.
First Pulitzer Prize-winning cartoonists, then who ...?
内容: Mark Fiore can win a Pulitzer Prize, but he can’t get his iPhone cartoon app past Apple’s satire police » Nieman Journalism Lab （Google サイドウィキで表示）
Kyoto, the Hotel Granvia
It's a long hotel, with a main corridor that's got Stanley Kubrick's "The Shining" written all over it ...
As we got off the train an older Japanese woman who disembarked with us asked us where we were visiting while in the area. She recommended we go visit the Golden Pavillion. It wasn't on our itinerary (actually, it was Bob's itinerary. I just told him we were going to Japan and he got busy with the web and the guide books) but we're going to squeeze it in.
Meanwhile the view from the hotel shows that Kyoto is in a nice valley, but we're right next to a train station. What is with the happy music whenever a train stops?
Bob's thoughts on Tokyo and Japan so far ...
Dude, you were born in the Bronx.
Incredibly clean trains
The Japanese are fastidious. Even when they punch your train ticket, it's a stamp not a hole-punch (no confetti mess to clean up, I suppose).
The high-speed trains are comfortable, clean, yet spartan. I couldn't find any wi-fi (free or otherwise) on the train or at the train stations, either. Don't know if it my laptop or if I just was in the wrong neighborhood.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Nakajimabashi Bridge, Hama-rikyu Garden
Bob and I got a quick coffee and pastry at the Tully's again this morning then walked over to the nearby Hama-rikyu Garden.
It was beautiful and pleasant. The tree-grooming seems a little excessive, at least to me, though Bob loves the precision and meticulous way the gardeners go about their work.
Studio Ghibli was here
Right across form the hotel, in the Nippon Television Tower, was what looked like a toy store (it was closed whenever we went by, either too late or too early) whose facade was designed by the same animation company responsible for the movies Spirited Away and Castle in the Sky.
To be honest, it was more creepy than cute and reminded Bob and I of something Tim Burton might have created. And no, that's not a compliment.
Atrium skylight, Park Hotel, Shiodome
We're checking out of the hotel and heading for breakfast. Access to the Tokyo Metro and Japan Railway is great from here.
It's about US$250 plus or minus whatever expenses you might accrue at the bar. I recommend its "Perfect Martini", made with both a dash of sweet vermouth and dry vermouth. Quite good.
The (not-so) Open Net
If you go to the Open Net Initiative site, you can see a list of the bad guys who offer some or complete restrictions. No surprises here, folks, mostly in Asia, the Middle East, Russia and a few former Soviet satellites.
TechCrunch gives Google a wedgie for not naming names, but it's a business, not a country, so that's to be expected.
内容: Official Google Blog: Controversial content and free expression on the web: a refresher （Google サイドウィキで表示）
Ouch! That's a demographic you don't want to lose!
内容: Universities Banning iPads Due to Bandwidth Problems （Google サイドウィキで表示）
30 Hours Over Tokyo
That said, it was pure tourism: dropping into the fish market, Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Ramen Street, Ginza by day and night.
The people are unfailingly polite and despite what the guidebooks and people have said about the locals not speaking English, we've been lucky. Security guards, police, people on the street, have pointed us in the right direction or offered to find people who do speak English to show us on our way. Nice.
Ginza is pretty and all, but please, give me Times Square or Fifth Avenue any day of the week. Like Hong Kong, the assault on the sense by luxury brands, boutiques and department stores is just generic and stultifying. I mean, who fucking cares? I can buy overpriced crap anywhere now and it will still be tacky.
Still, Nissan's Zero-Emissions car was cool to look at, though completely pointless (it seats one. Great).
And the Tokyo DeBeers flagship store was an excellent example of Dr. Seuss-ian architecture come alive.
Though it's interesting to see European brands like France's Printemps or Dunhill of London holding forth with the other fashion colossus of the world like Bvlgari and Burberry in a "gee, isn't mass consumption and globalization annoying?" kind of way.
The Tokyo International Forum and its Glass Building was incredibly impressive. Constructed in the shape of a ship, it's metal skeleton and glass surface was inspiring. Despite its size, it was very welcoming within and even though there were meetings and conferences, you didn't feel overwhelmed by the building or those using it.
Tokyo Tower was kind of sexy. A weird amalgam of the San Francisco TV tower on Twin Peaks and Paris' Eiffel Tower, it resides in a part of Tokyo that is not dissimilar to the neighborhood in Seattle where the Space Needle resides. An artifically created neighborhood of interest, benign, utilitarian, phony.
We would need more time in Tokyo, to meet people, to find the local spots. We saw an older couple of women in kimonos and that was nice to see, a group of senior gentlemen dining at a soba place in Tokyo Ramen Street, smoking, drinking beer and sake and shooting the shit. We would need time to meet people like that, to get to know the town.
I am however drawn to the statue of Kusunoki Masashige, the 14th Century samurai. Though Western European in its presentation, his presence on the grounds of the Imperial Palace, like the walls surrounding the palace itself, is just magnificent and a monument to something very real: a sense of duty and honor. That's worth coming back for.
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