A lot of people have been asking me the same question since I got here: Is there a gay scene in Hong Kong? Depending on who's asking, the question can have any of the following three meanings:
"Is the society/government repressive?" "Have you found fun places to hang out with 'our people'?" And "are you getting laid?"
The answers, in order, are: "No, kinda ..." "Yes," and "NonenayaGODDAMNbizness!!! I mean, no, of course not ..."
Having never been to the Mainland, I have no idea what gay life is like in Beijing or Shanghai, though the Chinese government did ban the
Mr. Gay China pageant about two weeks ago, so what does that tell you? (Nice harness, by the way, but I really don't think butch is his color ...)
Hong Kong, of course, is different. With it's colonial past and penchant for modernity, as well as catering to Western tastes, there are gay-friendly bars as well as bars that have a predominantly gay clientele. On Friday nights the Club '97 in the heart of the Lan Kwai Fong has a "gay night" where from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. a gay crowd congregates. For the uninitiated, "the Fong" is a notoriously boisterous part of Hong Kong's Central district crowded with restaurants and bars.
It's equivalent in the States would be Times Square or Fisherman's Wharf or (at least in recent years) Hollywood Blvd. I've assiduously avoided the neighborhood since I arrived because, to be real honest, if I wanted to hang out and get drunk with a bunch of white people, I could have stayed in New Jersey.
Still, it's interesting to see what there is of gay culture -- an entirely American conceit -- transposed into another society. Since Central is a popular expat or "gwai lo" neighborhood, I've ran into a lot of gay and lesbian couples, predominantly Western, though there is a good number of mixed-race gay couples, too. ("Gwai lo" is a Cantonese word for "ghost person" or "white ghost" and is short-hand for Westerner. Though recently at a function with a mix of local Hong Kongers and expats, among our number were couple of African-American guys. I asked, innocently enough, do they lump all Westerners in as "gwai los" and what do they call people of African descent. There was much casting about and Cantonese mumbling and I never got an answer. Next ...)
Within gay life if you're a white guy into Asians, you are known as a "rice queen". Like many queer terms of description, it cuts both ways. Still, it's led to many a humorous moment here for me in recent weeks as walking up or down the escalator I've passed several couples.
Now, I'm not the best-looking guy on the planet -- and I'm certainly not the ugliest -- but since I've arrived I've found myself on a couple of occasions being flirted with by people of both sexes. It's actually quite charming, but it also has its perils.
Here's how it usually goes: I am strolling down the hill to get something to eat and a mixed-race couple, usually a big beefy white guy my age or older with a slight, tautly-built Asian dude five to 15 years younger are coming up. Young Asian dude makes cruise-y eye-contact which I deflect, diverting my gaze into the incoming nasty glare of big, beefy boyfriend. I'm
thisclose to saying, "Look, Mary, we've a much better chance of making the magic happen than me and your boy-toy ... ," but that would just be rude.
As for seeing native Chinese gay men and couples, I can safely say I think I saw one duo on the subway one afternoon, hanging off each other in an affectionate manner, but then they might have just been brothers.
Of course, such ambivalence is contradicted by what has to be one of the gayest commercials I've ever seen:
Lesbianism, on the other hand, is a completely different issue. There is a nightclub called the Galaxy on Hennessey Road which on Sunday's hosts what appears to be a lesbians-only event. I stumbled across it on one of my walks. I've seen native Chinese lesbian couples, in the late-20s fondling and clasped in embraces on the MTR, and while older Chinese give them disapproving glances, no one seems to really care. Now, at this Galaxy club, the lesbians appear to mostly be immigrants: Malays, Filipino or Thai. They dress aggressively masculine, a combination of Hip Hop and Indie-Rock fashion and hang off each other, smoke, fight and make out like teenagers.
In an offbeat note, yet somewhat related, over the course of my explorations a gentleman told me that Thailand has the most androgynous population of the region and one of the more quirky byproducts of this sexual fluidity has been the strain HSBC's human resources has come under trying to get its hand around the large number of gender reassignment surgeries Thai staffers have applied for ...
Anyway, I gotta go eat. With the furniture almost all moved in and Bob arriving next week, I've begun looking at how to make the place more homey with wall art and whatnot. While I know it's cliche, I had to have the following:
It's like some weird combination of Colonel Sanders and a Coca-Cola sign and for $10 US it was a steal.