It was quite the week. I started moving into the apartment and I got to go on a field trip to Macau for the day.
One of the more surreal experiences is actually buying furniture at the local IKEA (yes, they have the meatballs here, too). I went to the IKEA located in the Causeway Bay neighborhood, about half-way between the office in Quarry Bay and my new neighborhood in Central.
Big furniture is on the first floor, fold-out couches, dining room tables, desks and chair, consoles for your surround-sound HDDVDTV ... all very courant. However, the basement level with home furnishing and kitchen tables and chairs has to be the closest I will ever get to shopping in Hobbiton.
Last Saturday, as I was herded through the maze past fugly armoires, chrome and plastic desk lamps, rattan woven trash baskets and crockery, I came upon what must have been the largest Australian I've ever seen. As tall as he was wide, this merry gent and his not-so-ample, yet solid-of-frame wife were test-driving kitchen chairs even I considered too frail and dodgy for my bulky figure.
Everything here is smaller. Mostly due to space issues, but I think also because the indigenous people are predominantly more compact and slender. My trip out to Macau seemed to amplfy that. I breezily suggested the former Portuguese protectorate was like Atlantic City, but the truth is it's more like LasVegas, if Vegas went to Weight Watchers.
The casinos in downtown Macau are impressive, gaudy, electric gambling dens that would blend right in on the Strip. There's even a Wynn that looks exactly like the Wynn hotel and casino in Sin City, except Lilliputian-ized for local consumption.
Still, despite the fact that someone installed a reproduction of The Venetian nearby (I know, a tiny copy of a copy, right?), I don't think anything beats the glitz of the
Grand Lisboa (WARNING, if you're in the office reading this, the casino's website comes with an unfortunate soundtrack):
Still, the opulence, faux or otherwise, doesn't take away from the wonderful Mediterranean style of the Macau's original downtown area, especially Largo do Senado, the central square that's beautifully tiled and surrounded by 17th, 18th and 19th century buildings all built in styles reminiscent of Portugal. I didn't get to spend a lot of time, so I'm definitely going back for an overnight stay when Bob's here. Check out the facade of the Ruins of St. Paul's. It was built in 1602 and was burned down several times over a three-hundred year period.
Like a lot of the world, it's been marketed for tourists and there are tons of vendors selling dried meats -- pork and beef mostly -- and the driest almond cookies I've ever tasted. I loved one of the pharmacy signs, though:
Such a comfort.
Since President Obama's visit to China, I've been jonesin' for a Maobama T-Shirt, and while not the original, my prayers were answered:
I got mine in black. I also picked up the Ronald McDonald, too. Such commentaries on Western Cultural Imperialism are that much funnier when you know there's a Starbucks about two shops down from this vendor. The McDonald's was around the corner.
There is always construction going on in Hong Kong, and there was quite a bit of it in Macau, too. I took a cab out to Colôane Island to the world famous Fernando's. It's a Portuguese restaurant of the old school style. While it began very Mom 'n' Pop about 15 years ago, don't let the plain-dressed dining area in the front fool you. They've expanded out the back into a resort-like open air dining area that easily seats a hundred people.
Still, stick to the front, you can smoke there and old-timer Portuguese guys -- ex-pats and Macau-born -- seem to like to hang out and jaw.
Anyway, about the construction. It's everywhere. On my way back by bus from Fernando's, we drove by a rather large swathe of land that appeared to be the new home to a W and a Westin Hotel, as well as what looked like luxury stores and another casino. Recession? What recession?
Back in Hong Kong, while I haven't come across building sites as large as the one I saw in Macau, there's plenty of refurbishing and facade work going on in almost every neighborhood. But what makes this really cool is the use of bamboo. Nope, no steel pipes and girders for the construction teams to amble up and down here, they keep cost down and productivity high going Mother Nature's way:
Yes, that's a bamboo construction platform. On the second floor of a building over hanging a really busy street. In fact, I took this shot on the King's Road. Not far from my hotel. Some of it's really pretty. This was at a warehouse in the Tsuen Wan neighborhood on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong:
One of CNNGo's city editors, Zoe Li, who covers Hong Kong, well, her family is in the furniture making business, specifically building pieces in the Ming Dynasty style. She heard me looking for some stuff and hooked me up with her uncle, Li Kwan Yau. Oddly enough, I didn't buy any Ming-style furniture from him, but three beautiful rosewood side tables. One for the TV, and another two for lamps and stuff. I also got a small coffee table. Her uncle was generous with his time and offered great advice.
After I made the purchases, I wanted to buy a bag to carry my stuff around. I'm not a fan of backpacks, I was looking for a messenger bag. Mr. Li dropped me off a nearby shopping mall the MetroPlaza in Kwai Fong. Now, as Hong Kong malls go, this one was pretty run of the mill. Middle-class, not too swank like Pacific Place or Taikoo Place here on the island. But what made MetroPlaza interesting was the older, stall like markets in the Kwei Fong Plaza connected to it via a pedestrian bridge.
The home of suspect Hello Kitty Chinese New Year banners, designer jeans, flat screen TVs, mobile phones and digital music and video systems, Kwei Fong Plaza is jam-packed with shoppers and vendors. I tried to take a shot from the top floor on the escalator, but you had to experience it to feel the energy. I'm definitely going back. I mean, c'mon, portable DVD/MP3/HDTV players for HK$300? Sold!:
Yesterday, Mr. Li came to the apartment with his son, Michael, to drop off the pieces and they took measurements for an armoire and a dresser. Their work is impressive, and very sturdy. Mr. Li is one of four sons whose father came to Hong Kong at the end of World War II and began the business. Now Mr. Li is the only son left running in the business. His children have no interest in continuing it and Michael is a programmer. Brave new world.
So a week in Hong Kong wouldn't be the same without me getting lost again and I did, but my missteps took me to the coolest pieces of public art I've seen in a long time:
Dragon's are cool and the Chinese see them as representing power, success and good fortune. I'm pretty sure I was in Wan Chai or the southern part of Causeway Bay when I ran into the Dragon. Good fortune.